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Recently, I decided to take what I refer to as a “skincare reset” — in other words, ditching all the alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids and going back to basics: cleanser and moisturizer. I do this when my skin either hits a plateau in improvement or becomes more fussy and prone to irritation. After a long, dry New England winter and a particularly stressful period in my life, I started prioritizing products with soothing, nourishing, protective ingredients so I could ease back into retinol, acids, and other active ingredients without my skin freaking out. Enter Dieux Deliverance Serum.
Dieux is hailed as one of the best skincare brands by dermatologists and influencers alike, in part because of the company’s commitment to using science-backed, sustainably-sourced ingredients and to formulating according to European standards for stability. Deliverance translates to the state of being liberated or rescued for something — in this case, from dryness and irritation, both of which I have suffered from as long as I can remember. In an earlier Dieux skincare review, Business Insider’s Andrea Bossi reported that she found the serum to be “highly soothing and calming for redness.” As someone with sensitive skin, this was an easy sell. It’s no wonder the serum has sold out several times over.
So, what does the Dieux Deliverance Serum do? Who is it suitable for? And is it worth the investment? I’ll answer all of these questions and more in my review below.
With a research-backed cannabinoid complex, niacinamide, and multiple peptides, this calming serum is a godsend for anyone with dry or sensitive skin—particularly when dealing with redness and other signs of irritation. Layer it on day and night in between cleansing and moisturizing, and use it for at least eight to twelve weeks to reap maximum benefits.
Dieux Deliverance Serum ingredients
Rebecca Strong/Business Insider
Without a doubt, the star ingredient in Dieux Deliverance Serum is the cannabidiol complex. Dieux’s co-founder and CEO, Charlotte Palermino, worked with her fellow co-founder and clinical cosmetic chemist Joyce de Lemos to test out an encapsulated cannabinoid blend after having an allergic reaction and was amazed by how well it worked to bring down the redness and irritation just a couple of hours after application.
Here’s what to know about the Deliverance formula and its purported benefits.
- 1% Encapsulated cannabinoid complex: Research has found that because cannabis has anti-inflammatory effects, it can help to soothe a variety of skin disorders, from eczema to psoriasis. Dieux included a combination of three cannabinoids in the formula, all of which they tested at varying doses to ensure they were effective at reducing inflammation.
- 4% Niacinamide: This form of vitamin B3 is known to support skin barrier function by helping to build keratin — a crucial component of the outer layer of your skin. Niacinamide can help to treat dryness by minimizing moisture loss from the skin. Studies have shown that niacinamide also reduces inflammation in people with eczema, acne, rosacea, and irritation — and can help to smooth out wrinkles and fine lines while evening out the texture of the skin. Some research has revealed that niacinamide can also help to fade dark spots even at lower concentrations like 2%.
- 3% Water Lily complex: According to a 2022 review, lilies have strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, meaning they may help calm redness, swelling, and itching while also reducing damage from sunlight exposure.
- Shea butter: This plant-derived fat is ideal for dry, sensitive skin because it has anti-inflammatory properties, and forms a lubricating barrier to help keep irritants out and moisture in. Something to keep in mind, though, if you have acne-prone skin: shea butter can sometimes clog pores.
- Green tea extract: Studies have shown that green tea extract can soothe the skin, fight inflammation, and even help protect the skin from UV damage. According to research, it’s particularly beneficial for people with eczema, rosacea, and acne.
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Peptides: The Dieux Deliverance Serum contains multiple peptide blends. A 2021 study suggested that peptides may also be helpful for sensitive skin, as they can reduce redness, itching, stinging, and other symptoms related to allergic contact dermatitis.
I love that the Deliverance Serum is cruelty-free and doesn’t contain any parabens, phthalates, sulfates SLS & SLES, triclocarban, triclosan, formaldehydes, or formaldehyde-releasing agents. The packaging states that it contains “less than one percent synthetic fragrance;” I couldn’t help but wonder why there needed to be any artificial fragrance. That said, at less than 1%, there’s much less of a risk for irritation.
It’s generally advisable to start with lower strengths of niacinamide (below 5%) if you have sensitive skin. The Dieux Deliverance Serum boasts a 4% concentration — which strikes an ideal balance between minimizing potential for irritation while still being potent enough to offer benefits.
How to use Dieux Deliverance Serum
Rebecca String/Business Insider
According to Dieux, the Deliverance Serum is meant to be used twice daily for best results. However, the company notes that if you have sensitive skin, it’s a good idea to start by using it nightly and then work up to twice a day if you don’t have a reaction. I didn’t notice any issues within a couple of days after my first application, so I proceeded to use it twice daily. Something to keep in mind: It can take up to 48 hours for an allergic reaction to appear on your skin, so you might want to wait two full days before you start using Deliverance, or any new product, daily.
Per Dieux’s recommendations, l applied it in between cleansing and moisturizing. I followed it up with my favorite SPF moisturizer by Dermalogica in the morning and Dieux’s Instant Angel Moisturizer in the evening. If you use a toner or essence after cleansing, Dieux advises using Deliverance right after this step (and before moisturizing).
Dieux suggests gently patting one pump onto your face and neck with clean hands. For a thorough, even application, I preferred using two pumps. Dieux recommends applying it to damp skin and misting your face with a bit more water afterward. This can help your skin seal in moisture better.
Dieux Deliverance Serum Review
As soon as I pumped this serum into my hand, I fell in love with the consistency. It has a lightweight, milky, and somewhat slippery feel on my fingers. Upon smoothing it over my face and neck, it left a dewy finish. It didn’t feel sticky or tacky at all, gave me a non-greasy glow, and layered like a dream under moisturizer and makeup alike.
Dieux reports that in an eight-week independent, third-party clinical study, 94% of people who applied the Deliverance serum once daily felt their skin was immediately smoother after. After four weeks, many participants noticed a significant decrease in fine lines and wrinkles, and after eight weeks, they saw an improvement in dark spots and uneven skin tone.
According to Dieux, the main benefits that occur in the first few weeks of using Deliverance are skin soothing and calming — improvements in texture and tone tend to kick in after at least four to eight weeks, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles tend to fade after 12 weeks or more.
I always brace myself for a reaction whenever I introduce a new skincare product into my routine. Fortunately, I experienced no irritation while using the product — and better yet, my skin felt hydrated, smooth, and plump.
The bottom line
Upon looking back at photos of my skin before using Deliverance, I did notice some pink undertones around my nose and cheeks — something I’ve struggled with my whole life, although I don’t have full-blown rosacea. After using Deliverance for just one week, that pink flush was gone, and my skin definitely looked more even-toned.
Did Deliverance dramatically transform my skin? No, but that would be unrealistic to expect in a one-week period. Did it deliver its promises to save me from redness, dryness, and irritation? Yes, it did. And for now, that’s good enough for me.
FAQs
What is a face serum?
Serums can range a lot in terms of their active ingredients and what skin concerns they address. Some serums are targeted to help brighten the skin and reduce dark spots and discoloration, while others are formulated to help shrink pore size or make wrinkles and fine lines less noticeable. Serums can be oil- or water-based, but they’re highly concentrated — meaning a little goes a long way.
Serums have a few things in common, though. They’re typically lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin.
What to look for in a serum depends on your goals. Harvard Health advises seeking serums with vitamin C, ferulic acid, and kojic acid to brighten the skin or lighten hyperpigmentation. If your skin is dry and flaky, try serums with vitamin E, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. Finally, if you want a serum with anti-aging benefits, look for formulas that contain antioxidants like resveratrol, peptides, retinol, and niacinamide.
What causes skin irritation—and what ingredients can help?
Contact dermatitis is irritation and inflammation of the skin. There are two types: irritant contact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis. The former happens when irritating substances damage the skin cells; the latter is an allergic reaction that typically leads to an itchy rash. Some of the most common areas for symptoms of irritant contact dermatitis to appear include the cheeks, chin, near the corners of the nose and mouth, and the eyelids. A reaction can happen almost immediately or take 24-48 hours to develop and can last for up to two to four weeks after you stop using whatever caused it.
Fragrances and preservatives are the top culprits of contact dermatitis from skincare products.
Other than identifying and avoiding irritants that cause a reaction on your skin, you can use barrier creams to help block out irritants. Look for products with emollients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which can attract moisture to the skin while preventing moisture from evaporating. Emollients can also help to soften and soothe peeling, scaling, or flaking skin.
When should you apply serum in your skincare routine?
Whether you know it or not, the order in which you apply your skincare products impacts how well your skin absorbs them.
Generally, experts advise applying lightweight products first and heavier products last. That’s because richer creams and other heavy products can form a barrier on the skin that may block the absorption of other ingredients in lightweight formulas. With that in mind, you should apply serums after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing.
Rebecca Strong is a Boston-based freelance writer covering health and wellness, food and wine, fitness, and travel. In addition to contributing to the Health Reference and Kitchen verticals at Insider, she has also written for Healthline, Health magazine, Bustle, StyleCaster, PopSugar, AskMen, and Elite Daily. You can follow her work on Twitter.
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